Tidbits: Tasty Treats, Eighteenth-Century Style

Eighteenth-century housewife baking cakes

“After we had demonstrated our talents—except the captain, who pled destitution thereof—we feasted on almond ratafia cakes and Sally Lunn buns smothered with butter and jam as the ladies interrogated our fascinating guest.” Mariah Weston in Of Gentlemen and Heroes.

As in every age, an eighteenth-century party always featured delicious foods to satisfy everyone’s appetite. Clearly, Mariah and all her cousins, as well as the charismatic Captain de Wynter, enjoyed the treats served at Diana Winslow’s musicale referenced above.

But just what are almond ratafia cakes and Sally Lunn buns?

Ratafia is a sweet liqueur commonly used in eighteenth-century baking. Made from almonds or fruit pits, it could flavor cream, cakes, biscuits (cookies), and puddings. For example, The Compleat Housewife, 1739 edition, contains a simple recipe for “Ratafia Bisket” using only blanched and beaten bitter almonds, egg whites, and sifted (confectioner’s) sugar.[1]

The charmingly named Sally Lunn bun is a relative of brioche, its creation attributed to a French Huguenot named Solange Luyon who sought refuge in the city of Bath in 1680. She found work at the Lilliput Alley Bakery, where her special bread became a Georgian-era sensation. However, locals had a difficult time pronouncing her name and re-christened her the much more English “Sally Lunn.”[2] Her bun was often eaten for breakfast, but—served piping hot and split open to be filled with butter—it pleased the palate at any meal. Today, visitors to Sally Lunn’s Eating House in Bath can try one (or more!) of the famous delicacies baked using the original recipe.

To share a culinary experience with my eighteenth-century characters, sometimes I’ve been tempted to try to make one of the dishes described in The Compleat Housewife. But since neither baking nor cooking is my specialty even in the twenty-first century, I suppose I had best not. Hopefully, someday I’ll be able to satisfy my curious taste buds at the historic Sally Lunn’s in Bath!

[1] E. Smith, The Compleat Housewife: Or, Accomplish’d Gentlewoman’s Companion (London: J. and J. Pemberton, 1739), 171, Google Books, accessed April 16, 2026.

[2] “History” page of Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum, accessed April 16, 2026, https://www.sallylunns.co.uk/history.